First layer not sticking: 8 causes and fixes

Troubleshooting6 min readUpdated: 10/2026

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The first layer is the foundation of every 3D print. If it does not hold, the part eventually comes off the bed, and in the worst case the printer spends hours producing spaghetti. The good news: almost always one of a few causes is behind it. It is best to work through the list from top to bottom, with the most common causes first.

1. The print bed is not clean

Fingerprints are the most common reason for poor adhesion. Even the grease from a single touch on the plate is enough.

Fix: Wash the plate with warm water and a little washing-up liquid and dry it well. Isopropanol helps in between. After that, touch the plate only at the edge.

2. The distance between nozzle and bed is wrong

If the nozzle is too far away, the lines just lie there round and loose. If it is too close, the material is squashed flat or hardly anything comes out. The right value is called the Z offset.

Schematic view, cross-section of the first lines. On the left, with the nozzle too high they lie round and loose, and with the nozzle too low they are squashed flat. On the right, they are slightly flattened and join up without gaps.

Fix: The first layer should look slightly flattened, with the lines touching without gaps. On printers with automatic measurement, start the calibration again. Otherwise adjust the Z offset in small steps of 0.02 mm.

3. The bed is uneven or not levelled

A slightly warped plate means the first layer holds in some places and not in others.

Fix: Run auto bed levelling before the print. On manual printers, readjust the corners.

4. The bed temperature does not suit the material

PLA sticks well at 55 °C, PETG needs more like 70 to 85 °C, and ABS even more. If the bed is too cold, the print comes off. If it is too hot, an elephant’s foot can form with PLA.

Fix: Adjust the bed temperature to the material. You will find guide values in our filament overview.

5. The first layer is too fast

Many slicers already print the first layer more slowly. If it is still too fast, the material has no time to bond with the bed.

Fix: Reduce the first layer speed in the slicer to about 30 to 50 mm/s.

6. Draughts and cold

An open window or an air conditioner cools the print unevenly. With ABS and ASA in particular, the corners then lift, known as warping.

Fix: Move the printer out of the draught. For ABS and ASA, use an enclosed chamber.

7. Small contact area

Parts with little contact with the bed, such as narrow feet or rounded edges, have little grip.

Fix: Enable a brim in the slicer. It enlarges the contact area and can be peeled off easily after printing.

8. The build plate is worn

Coatings such as PEI lose adhesion over time, especially in places where printing happens often.

Fix: Clean the plate thoroughly. On textured plates, wiping with acetone sometimes helps (only if the manufacturer allows it). If nothing helps any more, a new plate is due. It is a wear part.

Checklist to tick off

Plate washed and not touched since?
Calibration or levelling done?
Bed temperature right for the material?
First layer slow enough?
No draughts?
Brim enabled for small parts?