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PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU: which filament for what?

Filaments7 min readUpdated: 10/2026

are explained briefly when you hover over or tap them.

In FDM printing, the filament decides almost everything: how easy the print is, how sturdy the part turns out and whether it withstands sun, heat or bending. The good news: for 90 percent of all hobby projects, two materials are enough. For the rest, it is worth looking at the differences.

The short version

MaterialNozzle (guide value)Bed (guide value)DifficultyTypical for
PLA190 to 220 °C50 to 60 °Cvery easydecoration, prototypes, figures
PETG230 to 250 °C70 to 85 °Ceasyfunctional parts, brackets
ABS240 to 260 °C90 to 110 °Cmedium to hardheat-resistant parts
ASA240 to 260 °C90 to 110 °Cmedium to hardoutdoor parts
TPU210 to 230 °C40 to 60 °Cmediumseals, cases, dampers

All materials with chamber, fan and drying at a glance, also for printing out: Temperature cheat sheet.

The values are guide values. The information on the spool always takes priority, because even two PLA types from different manufacturers can differ by 20 °C.

Detailed practical articles with settings and troubleshooting: PLA · PETG · ABS · ASA · TPU

PLA: the standard for getting started

PLA is the easiest material of all. It prints at low temperatures, barely warps and does not need an enclosed chamber. PLA comes in countless colours and variants, from silk gloss to wood look to glitter.

The big weakness is heat. From about 55 to 60 °C, PLA becomes soft. A phone holder in the car that lies in the sun in summer will deform. For everything that stays indoors and is not heavily loaded, though, PLA is the first choice.

PETG: robust everyday plastic

PETG is tougher than PLA, does not break as easily and withstands more heat. That makes it the obvious choice for brackets, housings and anything that is mechanically stressed.

There are two things to know: PETG tends to string, that is, fine threads between the parts. A slightly lower temperature and dry filament help. PETG also sometimes sticks too well, and on smooth PEI plates it can tear pieces out of the coating. A release agent such as glue stick solves this.

ABS and ASA: heat-resistant but demanding

ABS and ASA withstand considerably more heat than PLA and PETG and can be sanded and post-processed well. ASA is additionally UV-resistant, which makes it the material of choice for parts that stay outdoors permanently.

Both shrink strongly as they cool and tend to warp. In practice this means: without an enclosed chamber it gets tedious. An open printer in a draughty room often produces detached corners and cracks between the layers with ABS. Fumes are also produced while printing, so the room should be well ventilated. Enclosed printers with a filter have a clear advantage here.

TPU: flexible like rubber

TPU is elastic and suits phone cases, seals, feet for devices or dampers. It is printed slowly, because otherwise the soft material gets compressed in the extruder. A direct drive extruder makes TPU considerably easier than a Bowden system.

How soft TPU is is stated as Shore hardness on the spool. 95A is the usual starting point, below that it gets softer and harder to print.

What does which filament cost?

Rough prices per kilogram so that you can plan. The ranges run from inexpensive own-brand filament to branded goods. Small spools (500 or 750 g) are converted to the kilo and are usually more expensive. Current prices of individual PLA types are in the PLA comparison.

MaterialPrice per kg (approx.)Note
PLA€10 to €33, usually €11 to €25Matt and silk cost barely more than standard PLA, European branded goods (Extrudr, Prusament) €25 to €33, speciality types such as wood or glitter up to about €50
PETG€12 to €45, usually €14 to €35flame-retardant and ESD types considerably more expensive
ABS€14 to €33in practice needs an enclosed chamber
ASA€17 to €46, usually €23 to €35UV-resistant, for parts that stay outdoors
TPU 95A€18 to €40softer types (e.g. 60A) and speciality TPU up to about €100
PC€30 to €57blends and industrial types up to about €120
Nylon (PA), unfilled€24 to €93, usually €60 to €70absorbs a lot of moisture, a filament dryer is almost always needed
PLA-CF€24 to €35needs a hardened nozzle, like all CF and GF filaments
PETG-CF€25 to €70industrial types over €100
ABS-CF and ASA-CF€27 to €67hardened nozzle and enclosed chamber needed
PA-CF and PA-GF€44 to €140the most expensive common fibre filaments
Break-away support material€34 to €74worthwhile with a printer that handles two materials in one print
PVA and BVOH (water-soluble)€70 to €170usually only in 500 g spools

Fibre-reinforced filaments (CF, GF) wear down brass nozzles. Plan for a hardened nozzle, see Nozzles. Nylon, PC and TPU almost always need a filament dryer.

This is how you work out the cost of a single part from these figures: What does a 3D print cost?

Sources: prices in the online shops 3DJAKE (many brands, including Bambu Lab, Prusament, Polymaker, Elegoo, eSUN, Extrudr), Filamentworld and in the manufacturer’s Creality shop, as of October 2026. Converted to the kilo and rounded, excluding shipping. Offers and promotions change the prices continuously.

Moisture: the underrated problem

Almost all filaments draw moisture from the air, TPU and nylon especially strongly, PETG noticeably. Damp filament crackles while printing and produces bubbles, rough surfaces and more strings. Store spools airtight with desiccant. If you print a lot with these materials, you should think about a filament dryer.

Which printer can do what?

For PLA, PETG and TPU, practically any current printer is enough. For ABS and ASA, an enclosed machine is worthwhile. In our device comparison you can see at a glance which printers have an enclosed chamber and how hot the nozzle and bed get.