Setting the print temperature: with a temperature tower
are explained briefly when you hover over or tap them.
The nozzle temperature is one of the most important settings in 3D printing. It determines how well the layers adhere to each other, what the surface looks like and how many strings form. The range on the spool is often wide, for example “190 to 230 °C”. Where exactly the best value lies depends on the filament, the printer and the speed.
Too hot or too cold?
| Sign | Too hot | Too cold |
|---|---|---|
| Strings between parts | many | few |
| Surface | glossy, sometimes smeared | matt, rough, gaps |
| Overhangs and bridges | sag, curl up | usually clean |
| Layer adhesion | very good | poor, parts break easily |
| Small details | blur | sharp, but sometimes patchy |
| Noise at the extruder | normal | clicking, because the material does not melt fast enough |
In short: too hot looks messy, too cold is unstable. What you are looking for is the lowest value at which the layers still hold together well.
Starting values by material
| Material | Nozzle (guide value) | Bed (guide value) |
|---|---|---|
| PLA | 190 to 220 °C | 50 to 60 °C |
| PETG | 230 to 250 °C | 70 to 85 °C |
| ABS, ASA | 240 to 260 °C | 90 to 110 °C |
| TPU | 210 to 230 °C | 40 to 60 °C |
Start with the middle of the manufacturer’s range on the spool. The values above are only a guide.
Speed needs heat
With fast printers one point plays a big role: the faster you print, the more material has to be melted per second. For that to work, a higher temperature is needed. This is why the profiles for fast printers are often 10 to 20 °C above older recommendations. If you deliberately print more slowly, for example for fine details, you can lower the temperature accordingly.
Finding the best value: the temperature tower
A temperature tower is a small test model made of several identical floors. Each floor is printed at a different temperature, for example from 230 °C at the bottom to 190 °C at the top in steps of 5 degrees.
Here is how to proceed:
- Get the model: Many slicers have a temperature tower built into the calibration, for example OrcaSlicer. Alternatively there are ready-made models on platforms such as Printables.
- Set the temperature range: a little above and below the manufacturer’s figure.
- Print and compare: Look at strings, overhangs, bridges and the surface.
- Break test: Try to break off the floors. If a floor breaks very easily between the layers, it was too cold.
- Choose the value: the lowest value that looks good and is stable in the break test.
You should print the tower once for every new filament brand. Even the same materials from different manufacturers can differ by 10 to 20 °C.
And the bed temperature?
The bed temperature mainly affects the adhesion of the first layer. If it is too low, the print comes loose. If it is too high, with PLA the bottom layer can bulge outwards, the so-called elephant’s foot. More on this in First layer does not stick.
For problems with strings, the article on stringing also helps.