Which 3D Scanner Suits You? Buying Criteria for Makers
are explained briefly when you hover over or tap them.
There is no single best scanner. A device for jewellery and small screws is unsuitable for a full-body scan and vice versa. So start with the object, not with the device. All the devices in the wiki are listed in the overview of 3D scanners.
1. What do you want to scan?
Manufacturers state which object sizes a scanner is intended for. This is the most important criterion.
| Object | What to look for | Examples in the wiki (according to the manufacturer) |
|---|---|---|
| Very small: jewellery, screws, miniatures | Short working distance, small point spacing, blue light or laser | 3DMakerpro Seal (10 to 300 mm), Creality PIKA in laser mode (from 10 mm) |
| Small to medium: spare parts, figures | Laser or hybrid, turntable helpful | Revopoint MetroX Pro (up to 1 m), Revopoint POP 4 |
| People, furniture, car parts | Infrared, large working distance, markerless tracking | Creality Otter Lite (up to 1,200 mm distance), Einstar 2 in infrared mode |
2. Accuracy or detail?
Accuracy tells you how much the dimensions deviate from the real part. This matters for spare parts that have to fit. Resolution or point spacing tells you how finely details are captured. This matters for figures and surfaces. Manufacturer values are best-case values. More on this under Scanning technologies compared.
3. Which surfaces?
Dark, shiny or transparent parts are difficult. According to manufacturers, infrared and laser cope better with dark surfaces than simple structured light. For glass or mirrors you almost always need a scanning spray. If you need colour, for example for a bust, look for a colour camera. The 3DMakerpro Fox, for example, delivers only a grey texture.
4. Markers or markerless?
For the software to be able to stitch the individual captures together, it needs orientation:
- Geometry: The object has enough edges and shapes.
- Texture: The surface has enough pattern or colour.
- Markers: Small adhesive dots provide a hold when the surface is smooth and uniform.
Laser modes almost always need markers. If you want to work markerless a lot, for example with people, you need a scanner with an infrared or structured light mode.
5. Is your computer sufficient?
This is often overlooked when buying. The data is usually processed by the PC, and many scanners demand a lot of power. A few manufacturer figures as an example:
- Einstar 2: Windows 11, Intel Core i7-13700H, NVIDIA RTX 3060 Laptop GPU with at least 6 GB, at least 32 GB DDR5.
- Revopoint MetroX Pro: 13th-generation Intel i7 or Ryzen 7 5800, from 32 GB RAM, NVIDIA RTX 3060 with 8 GB.
- Creality PIKA: Intel i7 from 7th generation, NVIDIA GPU with 8 GB, from 16 GB RAM, or Mac with M2 and 16 GB.
- 3DMakerpro Seal and Fox: Minimum Intel Core i5 of the 8th generation, 16 GB RAM, NVIDIA MX250.
For Revopoint, laser modes need an NVIDIA graphics card for full speed. Check the values in the datasheet before you buy.
6. Cable, Wi-Fi or no PC at all?
- Wired: cheaper, often with a power supply. You are tied to the computer.
- Wi-Fi with battery: more freedom around the object, though processing still runs on the PC or smartphone.
- Standalone with display and computer: Devices such as the Einstar VEGA or Revopoint MIRACO Plus scan without a PC entirely. That costs considerably more.
7. Software
Each manufacturer has its own scanning software: CrealityScan, Revo Scan, EXStar Hub or JMStudio. According to the manufacturers, JMStudio from 3DMakerpro and Revo Metro from Revopoint are free. For measuring or CAD work, some manufacturers offer additional programs for an extra charge. Check before buying whether the software runs on your operating system, especially on macOS.
Sources
- Formlabs: How to Choose the Best 3D Scanner for 3D Printing
- All3DP: Best 3D Scanners 2026 and 3D scanning accessories
- Manufacturer data: Einstar 2, Revopoint MetroX, Creality PIKA, 3DMakerpro Seal*, 3DMakerpro Fox*, Creality Otter Lite