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Which UV printer is right for me? A decision guide

Buying guide5 min readUpdated: 10/2026

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There is no single right UV printer. A machine that is perfect for phone cases and key rings fails with an A2 sign. Instead of a model recommendation, here are the questions you should answer before buying. If you go through them honestly, you will quickly narrow down the choice.

1. What do you want to print?

Write down three to five products you really want to make. Measure them: largest area, greatest height, flat or round. These give you the hard requirements.

Print area: It limits the largest product you can print in one run. Desktop machines mostly range between A5 and A3+. Anything bigger you have to piece together or not offer at all.

Object height: How tall may an object be on the table? For bottles, boxes or cartons you need considerably more height than for plates. Also pay attention to how the height is set: by hand, motorised or measured automatically.

2. Flatbed or UV DTF?

Flatbed (directly onto the object)UV DTF (transfer film)
PrinciplePrints directly onto the itemPrints onto film that you stick on
StrengthsDurable, smooth surface, relief also possibleRound and irregular parts, large quantities on a roll
LimitsObject must fit under the headSticker stays tangible, edges can lift
Extra equipmentHolders, possibly rotary attachmentLaminator, often integrated

Some machines can do both. More on the process in UV DTF.

3. White, varnish and rotary

You need white for dark, transparent and metallic substrates. Without white you are limited to light-coloured blanks. White is also the ink that needs the most care, because the pigments settle.

Varnish (gloss) provides shine, protection and raised effects. Without a dedicated varnish channel, you cannot print gloss accents. Relief is then only possible to a limited extent using several layers of white.

Rotary printing: For bottles, mugs and pens you need a rotary attachment. Check which diameters it takes and whether it can also handle tapered parts.

4. Print head and spare part prices

The print head is the most expensive wear part. Ask before buying: Which head is fitted, what does it cost on its own and who replaces it? Rough price examples from retailers:

Head typeTypical useExample price on its own
Epson XP600 (DX11)Entry-level and desktop machinesabout US$325 to US$625, on eBay from about €365
Epson i3200Desktop and small commercial machinesabout US$1,380
Ricoh Gen5 / Gen6Commercial and industrial machinesabout US$2,650 / US$3,555
Head modules from the machine manufacturere.g. eufyMake E1 (module with circuit board, probably an XP600 variant)US$599 (manufacturer price)

Prices vary widely depending on retailer, condition and customs duty. A machine with two heads often prints faster or separates colour and varnish, but also doubles the risk when it comes to replacement.

5. Ink costs and sources

Closed system: Cartridges with a chip from the manufacturer. Simple, often clean to handle, but you are tied to the manufacturer’s prices and ability to deliver. Example eufyMake: €29.99 for 100 ml.

Open system: Refill bottles, often from several suppliers. Cheaper per millilitre (Procolored lists 500 ml for US$59), but third-party ink can raise warranty questions. Ask which inks the manufacturer approves.

Ink has a shelf life. If you print little, you should not buy bulk containers.

6. Software and RIP

Some machines come with their own simple software, others need a RIP program. Check: Does the software run on your operating system? Can it control white and varnish as separate layers? Are there licence costs or a subscription? Is it in German or at least understandable?

7. Space, smell and ventilation

UV ink smells, especially when curing. The room should be ventilable; bedrooms and living kitchens are not a good choice. Plan space around the machine: for the E1, for example, eufyMake requires about 40 cm in front of and behind the machine and 30 cm to the left and right, because the A3 plate moves out at the front and back. Manufacturers state operating conditions, for the E1 15 to 35 °C and 20 to 85 % humidity. More in UV printing and safety.

8. Maintenance and downtime

Every inkjet UV printer needs care. White has to be kept moving, nozzles have to stay moist. Some machines clean themselves automatically but use ink doing so, even when you are not printing. Ask: How much ink does a cleaning cycle cost? What happens if I do not print for two weeks? Details in Maintaining a UV printer and Running costs.

9. Support in Germany and the EU

A print head does not always fail at a convenient time. Check: Is there a retailer or service in the EU? How quickly do spare parts arrive? Are there German-language manuals? Who sets up and collects the machine in warranty cases? For a business, a week of downtime can be more expensive than a higher purchase price.

Budget classes

The figures are rough guidelines based on current list prices. They change frequently.

BudgetWhat you typically get
under €2,000In our database so far only the Longer ePrint in the Single UV version (from €1,599), with an A3 area and up to 60 mm object height
€2,000 to €5,000Desktop machines up to A3, with white, partly with varnish, partly rotary or UV DTF as an option
€5,000 to €10,000A3 to A3+ with several heads, more object height, combination machines for flatbed and UV DTF
€10,000 to €20,000Larger flatbeds and professional machines, more robust heads, often better service

Add ink, cleaning agents, holders, blanks, primer and possibly ventilation to the machine cost.

For business

First work out what one piece costs and how many you have to sell for the machine to pay for itself. A bigger machine only pays off if you also use the area. Ask the retailer for test prints on your own blanks.

You will find the technical data of individual machines in our data sheets, side by side in the UV printer comparison. We expressly mark our own experiences with machines there.

Continue with: Running costs of a UV printer