UV DTF explained: transfer stickers for almost any surface
are explained briefly when you hover over or tap them.
UV DTF is a detour that is often the faster route. Instead of printing directly onto the object, you print onto a film and then stick the motif on. As a rule, only the printed motif is transferred, without a visible film border as with a classic sticker. How the result looks depends on the motif, film and cutting, though: a full-area motif is of course transferred as a whole area. This also lets you decorate objects that do not fit in the printer.
How UV DTF works
The process uses two films:
A film: the print film. It is coated on one side with adhesive, which is initially covered by a protective film. Printing is done directly onto this adhesive side. A films come in different versions, for example gloss or matt.
B film: the transfer film. It is clear and sticks more strongly than the surface of the A film. After printing, it is laminated over the motif. When peeled off, it takes the motif with it, and the A film stays behind.
The layer structure
On the A film, the following structure typically builds up from bottom to top:
- Adhesive: already present on the A film. It later sticks to the object.
- White: makes the motif opaque so that the substrate does not show through.
- Colour (CMYK): the actual motif.
- Varnish: a clear protective layer on top. It provides gloss and protects the colour from scratches.
For transparent objects that are visible from both sides, there is the structure colour, white, colour. The motif then looks coloured from the front and the back. The exact order and whether varnish is always printed depends on the machine and software. Background on this is in Colour, white and varnish.
Without varnish, a UV DTF motif often looks more matt and is more delicate. Many users therefore print varnish as standard.
Laminating
After printing, the B film is pressed onto the A film. This can be done with a laminator or a laminating roller, and for larger quantities with a UV DTF laminator. Even pressure is important so that no air bubbles or wrinkles form. Some machines laminate automatically straight after printing.
Application step by step
- Clean the surface, for example with isopropyl alcohol. Dust and grease are the most common reasons for poor adhesion.
- Cut out the motif roughly, leaving a little margin.
- Peel off the A film. The motif stays on the B film, and the adhesive side is now exposed.
- Lay the motif on and press it down firmly with a squeegee from the centre outwards.
- Wait briefly, then peel off the B film slowly and flat. If the motif lifts with it, press it down again.
With many adhesives, full adhesion only builds up over hours. Avoid stressing the object during this time if possible.
The complete process from motif to finished transfer, suitable substrates and the devices in the wiki are described in Rub-ons and transfer stickers with UV DTF.
How durable is UV DTF?
UV DTF is waterproof and quite scratch-resistant. For durability, eufyMake gives a range of 2 to 5 years: the guide to UV DTF says that transfers last at least two years outdoors without noticeable fading, and many years indoors with good care. In the guide to UV DTF transfers, eufyMake typically gives 3 to 5 years or longer on clean, smooth surfaces. Outdoors you are therefore more likely at the lower end. Such figures apply to good conditions and suitable substrates.
What shortens durability:
- rough, porous or oily surfaces
- frequent washing, especially in the dishwasher
- strong bending or soft material
- permanent friction, for example on handles
Dishwasher resistance is not a given with UV DTF. If a film manufacturer states it, it usually applies to a particular film under particular conditions. Check this yourself before promising it to customers.
Advantages and disadvantages compared with direct printing
| UV DTF | UV direct printing | |
|---|---|---|
| Curved, irregular objects | good, as long as the curvature is not too strong | only with a rotary unit or at low height |
| Large or heavy objects | no problem, the motif is stuck on | must fit in the printer |
| Pre-production | print motifs in advance and apply later | set up each object individually |
| Appearance | slight edge, visibly glossy on smooth surfaces | directly in the material, no film border |
| Durability | depends on the adhesive | depends on ink and primer |
| Cost per piece | additional A and B film | ink only, primer if applicable |
| Textiles | no | no |
In short: UV DTF is more flexible with the object, direct printing looks higher quality and saves film.
Devices
There are two routes:
Dedicated UV DTF printers work from the roll, printing and laminating in one pass. They are worthwhile if you make many transfers.
Flatbed printers with a film option: many desktop UV printers can print A film sheets, and some offer roll accessories. Laminating is then done separately. For occasional transfers, that is enough.
For business use
UV DTF suits mugs, bottles, tins, helmets or tool cases that do not fit well in a printer. You can print sheets with many motifs at once and save film if you make good use of the area. Include film and working time for application in the cost per piece. For products with customer contact with water, heat or friction, you should include care instructions to prevent complaints.
Continue with: UV printing, DTF or sublimation? and Durability of UV prints.