What is a laser engraver? How it works, uses and starter equipment
are explained briefly when you hover over or tap them.
A laser engraver uses a focused beam of light to put designs onto wood, leather, acrylic, slate or metal. Depending on the machine and material, it engraves, cuts out parts or only discolours the surface. This article explains how that works, which designs exist and what you need to get started.
How does a laser engraver work?
The laser source produces a beam of light with a fixed wavelength. A lens focuses it onto a very small point, often under 0.1 mm. At this point, a lot of power hits a tiny area. The material absorbs the energy, heats up and reacts: it vaporises, burns, melts or changes colour.
For this to become a design, the point has to move across the material. There are two principles for this:
- Gantry: The laser head travels on axes over the work area, similar to a plotter.
- Galvo: The head stays still and two fast mirrors deflect the beam.
The differences are explained in the article Gantry or galvo.
Everything is controlled by software. There you set for each layer the power (in percent), the speed and the number of passes the laser makes. Areas are scanned line by line, lines and contours along their path.
What can you do with it?
There are three basic types of processing. Which of them a machine can do depends mainly on the laser type and power.
| Processing | What happens | Typical examples |
|---|---|---|
| Engraving | Material is removed at the surface or burned dark | Chopping boards, leather patches, slate coasters, photos on wood |
| Cutting | The beam separates the material in one or several passes | Plywood kits, acrylic signs, stencils, felt |
| Marking | The surface changes colour without any significant material being removed | Serial numbers on stainless steel, logos on anodised aluminium |
Which laser types are there?
Five types are common among hobbyists:
- Diode lasers with blue light around 450 nm. Inexpensive, good for wood, leather, paper and dark acrylic.
- CO₂ lasers with 10,600 nm. Strong at cutting, also suited to clear acrylic and glass engraving.
- Fibre lasers with 1064 nm. For metal and many plastics.
- Infrared modules with 1064 nm and a few watts, often as an add-on to diode lasers. For marking metal and plastic.
- UV lasers with 355 nm. For glass, crystal and sensitive plastics.
Designs: open or enclosed
For hobby machines, this is the most important decision after the laser type.
| Open machine | Enclosed machine | |
|---|---|---|
| Construction | Frame with laser head, material lies exposed | Housing with lid, often with a viewing window |
| Laser class | usually Class 4 | often Class 1, as long as the housing is closed |
| Safety glasses | mandatory for everyone in the room | not needed for Class 1 in normal operation |
| Smoke | spreads through the room, separate extraction needed | exhaust connection or filter, usually integrated |
| Workpiece size | flexible, large parts possible with a riser | limited by the housing, sometimes with a pass-through |
| Price | cheaper for the same power | more expensive |
An open diode laser such as the Acmer P2 33W is Class 4. According to DIN EN 60825-1, these are lasers with more than 500 mW continuous power. Even scattered reflections can damage the eyes. An enclosed machine such as the xTool S1 20W, on the other hand, is designed as Class 1. This applies only as long as the lid is closed and no riser with an open side is fitted.
Important: even an enclosed machine produces smoke and can start a fire. The housing is no substitute for extraction or supervision.
What you need to get started
The machine alone is not enough. These things go with it:
- Exhaust air or filter: Lasering produces smoke, odours and harmful substances. The simplest solution is an exhaust hose to the outside. Where that is not possible, an air purifier with suitable filters helps. More in the article Laser extraction.
- Laser safety glasses: Mandatory for open machines. They must match the wavelength and have a sufficient optical density (OD) for exactly that range. Glasses for 450 nm do not automatically protect against 1064 nm.
- Fire extinguisher: A suitable extinguisher, for example a CO₂ extinguisher, belongs within easy reach next to the machine. Never leave the laser running unattended.
- Solid, non-flammable surface: A honeycomb bed or a metal sheet under the workpiece. With open machines, also a heat-resistant board under the whole machine.
- Air assist: A stream of air at the laser head blows away smoke and flames. Cuts become cleaner and the lens stays clean for longer. On many machines it is built in, on others it is an accessory.
- Software: The manufacturer usually supplies its own software. Many machines also work with LightBurn.
- Test material: A few sheets of 3 mm lime plywood and offcuts of the materials you want to use later. For every new material, you first laser a test grid.
What you must not laser
Not every material is suitable. PVC and vinyl release chlorine when lasered, which reacts to form hydrochloric acid. This harms your health and attacks the mechanics and electronics. The same applies to faux leather containing PVC. Polycarbonate and ABS melt, burn easily and produce toxic fumes. Glass fibre and carbon sheets are also off limits or at least critical. If you do not know what a material is made of, you do not laser it.
You will find a detailed list under Forbidden materials.
Where do you stand now?
Before choosing a machine, settle three questions:
- Which materials? Almost any laser can do wood and leather. Metal needs infrared or fibre, clear acrylic needs CO₂.
- Engraving or cutting? For thicker wood and acrylic you need more power or a CO₂ laser.
- Where will the machine stand? In a flat, there is a strong case for an enclosed machine with exhaust air. In a workshop with a window, an open one will also do.
Next: Laser types compared and Which laser suits you?