Laser Accessories: What You Really Need and What to Look For
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A laser engraver almost always comes with accessories. Some are mandatory for safety, some are just convenient. For each item, this article explains what it is for, when you need it and what to look for when buying.
The overview
| Accessory | Needed? | Mainly for |
|---|---|---|
| Laser safety glasses | mandatory with open machines | eye protection |
| CO₂ fire extinguisher, fire-resistant mat | mandatory | fire protection |
| Extraction or exhaust filter | mandatory | smoke and fumes |
| Air assist | almost mandatory for cutting | clean cuts, fewer flames |
| Honeycomb or slat bed | very useful | support, clean back side |
| Enclosure for open lasers | useful in living spaces | smoke, reflections |
| Rotary | only for round parts | tumblers, bottles, rings |
| Riser | only for tall parts | build height |
| Camera | convenience | positioning |
| Spare protective glass, cleaning | wear | keeping power up |
| Masking tape, transfer tape | useful | clean surfaces |
| Material holders, magnets | useful | flat support |
Laser safety glasses
What for: protects your eyes from direct and reflected laser radiation.
When needed: with every open machine and every machine without a stated Class 1 rating, for everyone in the room. With an enclosed Class 1 machine in its original state you do not need glasses. As soon as you use a riser without shielding or run the machine with the lid open, Class 4 applies again.
What to look for: the glasses must cover the wavelength of your laser: about 450 nm for blue diodes, 1064 nm for fibre and infrared, 10,600 nm for CO₂. Wavelength and protection level should be printed on them, ideally to EN 207, for example “D 445 LB5”. Glasses with OD 5 or higher are offered for diode lasers. For combination machines the glasses must cover both wavelengths. Side protection is important. More in Laser safety.
Honeycomb bed and slat bed
What for: both raise the workpiece so that smoke and beam can escape downwards. This leaves fewer burn marks on the back.
When needed: as soon as you cut. For engraving alone, a non-combustible plate is often enough.
What to look for: the honeycomb bed gives thin and small parts such as paper, fabric, leather or thin wood many points of support and can be used with pins or magnets. With thick sheets, heat is more likely to build up under the honeycomb. The slat bed with blades has less contact area, which spares the back of thick sheets, but holds small parts less well. With diode lasers the honeycomb bed is usually the norm. Check that the size fits the working area, and allow for the height of the bed when focusing.
Air assist
What for: a pump blows air through a nozzle on the laser head onto the cutting point. This pushes smoke and flames away, protects the lens and makes cuts cleaner.
When needed: for cutting, practically always. For engraving, depending on the material.
What to look for: pumps of about 10 to 30 l/min are usually offered for diode lasers, while CO₂ machines in the 50 to 100 W range tend to use 30 to 60 l/min. The nozzle has to fit your laser head. Control or software regulation is handy, because less air is often better when engraving. Pay attention to the noise level. Details in Air assist.
Extraction and exhaust filter
What for: lasering produces smoke with fine dust and, depending on the material, toxic fumes.
When needed: always. The only question is how.
What to look for: the simplest option is an exhaust hose with a fan leading directly outside, for example through a window adapter. Without a window you need an exhaust filter with pre-filter, particle filter and activated carbon. Include the cost of replacement filters, as they are the running expense. With open machines, extraction only really works well together with an enclosure. More in Extraction when lasering.
Enclosure for open lasers
What for: an enclosure traps smoke so you can extract it, and holds back reflections.
When needed: very useful with open machines in living spaces.
What to look for: a retrofitted enclosure does not turn an open machine into a Class 1 machine. You still need safety glasses if you open the lid or if the viewing window is not suitable for your wavelength. Look for flame-retardant material, an exhaust connection and a size that holds the whole frame including cables.
Rotary: rollers or chuck
What for: rotates round objects so that the laser can engrave all the way round.
When needed: only if you engrave tumblers, bottles, glasses or rings.
What to look for: a roller rotary turns the workpiece on rubberised rollers. It accepts many diameters and is considered gentler on glass because nothing is clamped. A chuck rotary holds the part with clamping jaws. This is more accurate for tumblers and irregular shapes, but can damage delicate glass if clamped too hard. Check whether your machine supports the rotary, whether you need a riser for it and what maximum diameter it accepts.
Risers
What for: raise the laser so that taller workpieces or a rotary fit underneath.
When needed: only for workpieces that are taller than the focus range of your machine.
What to look for: stable, adjustable feet so the frame does not wobble. With enclosed machines, risers often void Class 1. Read the manufacturer’s information before you buy one.
Fire extinguisher and fire-resistant mat
What for: cutting constantly produces small flames. Usually they go out, sometimes they do not.
When needed: always, regardless of the machine.
What to look for: a CO₂ extinguisher is suitable for fire class B and for electrical equipment and leaves no residue in electronics and optics. On embers in wood, CO₂ only works briefly, so check the workpiece afterwards and keep a fire blanket ready as well. Place the extinguisher so that you do not have to reach past the machine. A non-combustible mat belongs under the machine, such as a metal plate or tiles. And: never laser unattended.
Camera
What for: shows the workpiece in the software so you can place designs precisely.
When needed: convenience, especially for single pieces and irregular shapes.
What to look for: retrofit cameras have to be supported and calibrated by your software. Check whether the camera sees the whole working area and whether it works with the lid closed.
Replacement lens, protective glass and cleaning
What for: smoke and resin settle on the protective glass and lens. This costs power and can damage the optics.
When needed: regular cleaning always, replacement for scratches or burnt-in marks.
What to look for: buy spare parts that match your laser module, as diameter and material must be right. Clean with lens tissues and isopropanol, not with kitchen paper. On CO₂ machines the mirrors are part of this too.
Masking tape and transfer tape
What for: paper-based masking tape or transfer tape protects the surface from smoke marks, especially on light wood.
When needed: when cutting light wood and for engravings that need to stay clean.
What to look for: use only paper tape without PVC. Vinyl film is taboo when lasering. With acrylic you can often leave the manufacturer’s protective film on if it is made of paper. More under Forbidden materials.
Material holders and magnets
What for: hold warped or thin sheets flat so that the focus is right across the whole surface.
When needed: almost always helpful with plywood, paper and fabric.
What to look for: magnets only work on honeycomb beds made of steel. Position holders outside the laser path, otherwise they reflect or get cut. A low profile prevents collisions with the laser head.
Continue with: Which laser suits you? and Extraction when lasering.
How to set up a rotary and engrave tumblers, bottles and glasses is explained in Engraving tumblers and bottles.