Your first 3D print: step by step to a finished part

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With current printers, the first print is no longer rocket science. Most machines guide you through setup via the display or an app. Even so, there are a few points where things often go wrong. This guide goes through the steps in order and applies to most FDM printers.

1. Finding the right spot

The printer needs a stable, level surface. A wobbly table transmits vibrations to the print and creates wave patterns in the surface.

• With a bed slinger, the print bed moves out to the front and back. Allow space in front of and behind the machine for this.
• No draughts: a window or air conditioning right next to it makes prints cool unevenly.
• A room where the operating noise is not disturbing. Even quiet printers hum and click for hours.

2. Removing transport locks

Almost every printer is secured with screws, cable ties or foam parts that hold the axes in place. The manufacturer’s manual shows where they are. Many manufacturers also mark them with coloured stickers, flags or conspicuously coloured screws. A forgotten lock is one of the most common reasons why calibration aborts. In the worst case, the motors drive against the blocked axis and damage belts or plastic parts. Before switching on for the first time, therefore, check that you have removed all locks according to the manual. Whether and which axes you may move by hand is also stated in the manual: on some printers this is no problem, on others you should not work against motors, spindles or gears. If in doubt, move the axes via the printer’s menu.

3. Setting up and calibrating

When you first switch on, a setup wizard usually starts. Typical steps:

1. Set up language, Wi-Fi and, if applicable, an app account
2. Update the firmware, if offered
3. Start automatic calibration: the printer measures the print bed, the nozzle distance and often vibrations too. Depending on the machine, this takes 10 to 30 minutes.

Older or very cheap machines sometimes still have to be levelled by hand. In that case you equalise the distance between nozzle and bed at the four corners with a sheet of paper until it drags slightly.

4. Loading filament

PLA is the best choice to begin with. It prints at low temperatures, hardly warps and forgives small mistakes.

• Put the spool on the holder so that the filament unwinds easily
• Cut the end at an angle so that it is easier to thread
• Choose “Load filament” in the menu: the printer heats up and pulls in the filament until material comes out of the nozzle

Never let go of the filament while the end is free. Otherwise it springs off the spool and tangles. A tangle in the spool later causes problems in the middle of a print.

5. Preparing a test model

A small, proven model is suitable for the first print. Many printers have test files on the memory card or in the app. The little test boat 3DBenchy is popular because it combines typical difficulties such as overhangs and small details within a few centimetres.

If you want to slice it yourself:

1. Install the manufacturer’s slicer, for example Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer or Creality Print, or the cross-manufacturer OrcaSlicer
2. Select your printer model; the profile contains all the basic settings
3. Choose the material “Generic PLA” or the profile of your filament brand
4. Load the model, place it on the bed, click “Slice”
5. Send the file to the printer

To begin with, the rule is: do not change the default profile. The manufacturer profiles are matched to the machine. You can optimise later.

6. Starting the print and watching the first layer

The first layer decides the whole print. Stay with it for the first few minutes and watch:

• Good: The lines lie slightly flattened and touch each other without gaps.
• Too high: Round, loose lines that can be moved. The print will come loose.
• Too low: The nozzle scrapes and hardly any material comes out. The surface looks translucent or rough.

If the first layer looks bad, it is better to abort and check the causes in the article First layer does not stick.

7. Removing the part

Wait until the print bed has cooled down. With spring steel plates, you take the plate off and flex it slightly, and the part usually pops off by itself. Never pull on a warm part with force, and always work with the spatula away from your body.

Typical beginner mistakes

• Touched the plate with your fingers: Grease prevents adhesion. For in-between cleaning, isopropanol (at least 90 %) on a lint-free cloth is enough. If adhesion is still poor afterwards, wash the plate thoroughly with washing-up liquid and warm water; this also removes residues that isopropanol only spreads around.
• Filament stored open: PETG and TPU in particular absorb moisture and then print worse. More on this under Drying and storing filament.
• Started the big project straight away: Print small parts first and get to know the machine.
• Changed profiles wildly: Change only one setting at a time, otherwise you will not know what helped.

If you are still unsure which printer suits you, the printer comparison will help. Unfamiliar terms are marked in all articles and explain themselves when you point at them.