Sublimation: temperature and time for each blank

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In sublimation, three values decide the result: temperature, time and pressure. Which values suit depends mainly on the blank. A polyester shirt is done in under a minute, a ceramic tile needs several minutes. This page collects the manufacturers’ starting values for each blank. How sublimation works in principle is covered in Sublimation explained, and how to operate the press in Using a heat press properly.

The most important rule first

All manufacturers stress the same thing: their tables are starting values. In its quick reference, Sawgrass writes that good results depend on suitable blanks, a calibrated press, colour management, the blank manufacturer’s specifications, testing and practice. If a blank is missing from the table, Sawgrass refers you to the blank’s retailer or manufacturer. In its tips for drinkware, Sawgrass names the retailer’s product page as the best starting point, because it lists the values for exactly that blank.

So the order is: the information on the packaging or product page of the blank, then the table below, then a test print.

Starting values for each blank

Sawgrass works in Fahrenheit, so the Celsius values are converted and rounded (400 °F is about 204 °C). For Sawgrass, “medium” means 40 psi, or about 2.8 bar.

The Sawgrass help page sometimes gives different values from the quick reference, for example 205 °C and 45 s for polyester fabric and 420 s for glass and tiles. This shows how far the figures differ even within one manufacturer. As a press manufacturer, HTVRONT gives only broad ranges for most blanks. Longforte is a British blank supplier and says its values apply only to the machines it has tested with.

Notes for each blank

• Polyester fabric: Pre-press for 3 to 5 seconds so that moisture escapes. Sawgrass recommends fixing the transfer paper with spray adhesive and using a protective sheet to prevent a shadow image (“ghosting”).
• Mugs: Sawgrass presses mugs into a silicone pad and says the time varies depending on the press. HTVRONT advises cooling the mug in warm water or on a cooling plate after peeling off the paper.
• Tumblers: For a design that wraps all the way round, open the press after half the time and rotate the cup by at least 45 degrees (Sawgrass); HTVRONT says 180 degrees. Remove the lid, straw and plastic parts beforehand, as they can melt. For tapered or curved cups, Sawgrass recommends a sublimation oven with shrink wrap. With stainless steel, peel off the paper straight after pressing, otherwise it can stick.
• Aluminium sheets: Peel off the protective film before pressing. For brands other than Unisub, Sawgrass places an absorbent sheet on the lower platen and the metal on top of it with the transfer side down. According to Sawgrass, the time depends heavily on the metal manufacturer.
• Mouse mats: Sawgrass recommends a tightly woven surface with a high white point for strong colours. HTVRONT recommends removing lint thoroughly with a lint roller beforehand.
• Puzzles: Longforte advises letting the puzzle cool under a heavy weight after pressing so that it does not warp.
• Tiles: Sawgrass presses tiles from the back, that is, with the transfer side down, on a silicone pad.
• Coated wood: Longforte points out that its MDF blanks have a protective film that must be removed before printing, otherwise the design turns out pale. With Unisub hardboard, Heat Press Nation recommends pre-pressing for 20 seconds with a non-stick sheet and letting it cool before the actual transfer.

Uncoated wood, uncoated mugs or tiles from a DIY store do not work. Sawgrass writes that sublimation ink on hard surfaces needs a polymer coating. Without it, the design turns out pale and patchy, and it can be wiped or scratched off. According to Sawgrass, “sublimation ready” is not a protected term. If in doubt, test a single blank before you order a larger quantity.

Pressure: what “medium” means

For almost all blanks, Sawgrass specifies medium pressure, 40 psi (about 2.8 bar). If your press shows the pressure, you set it directly. Without a display, all you can rely on is the press’s manual and a test print. Exceptions in the table: Longforte requires very high pressure for puzzles.

Too much pressure or too much time can cause the paper to stick to the blank. In that case Sawgrass recommends reducing pressure and time, with the time in steps of 5 seconds. According to Sawgrass, paper that has stuck can be removed with water and washing-up liquid without damaging the design, because the ink sits in the coating.

Protective paper and fixing

• Tape: Fix the transfer paper tightly to the blank with heat-resistant tape, and with mugs and tumblers not only at the ends but also at the top and bottom. If the paper is loose, the gaseous ink escapes sideways and blurred streaks appear (Sawgrass).
• Protective sheet on top: For polyester and Unisub metal, Sawgrass names a protective sheet (“blow-out paper”), and Heat Press Nation a non-stick sheet between the blank and the heating platen. For Infusible Ink, Cricut recommends white butcher paper and advises against reusing it, because ink can build up on it.

Fault patterns: too hot or too cold?

Sawgrass gives a simple rule of thumb for drinkware:

• Black looks greenish: not enough heat. Raise the temperature in small steps.
• Black looks brownish: too much heat. Lower the temperature in small steps.

Sawgrass uses steps of 5 °F, which is just under 3 °C. Before you adjust the temperature, Sawgrass recommends a nozzle check on the printer. If lines are missing there, the colour fault lies with the printer and not with the press.

In addition, the press’s display does not always show the true platen temperature. Sawgrass recommends an infrared thermometer to check the actual temperature and adjust the setting accordingly.

Why cotton does not work

Sublimation ink needs a plastic it can bond with. On textiles that is polyester, on hard blanks it is the polymer coating. Cotton is made of cellulose. It lacks this polymer structure, so the ink cannot penetrate or bond there, according to Longforte. Sign Warehouse describes the typical result: on untreated cotton the design looks strong straight after pressing and then washes out. That is not a problem with the press but with the chemistry.

It follows that:

• Polyester content: The more polyester, the better. For Infusible Ink, Cricut specifies at least 75 % polyester. According to Longforte, blends with 50 % polyester can be sublimated, but the result is less vivid and less durable than on pure polyester.
• Polymer coating: Longforte names a polymer coating, applied to the cotton beforehand, as a workaround.
• Other options for cotton: printable flex film such as Siser EasySubli, Sawgrass VersiFlex with its own transfer paper for light cotton textiles, or DTF. An overview of the methods is given in DTF, DTG, screen printing, sublimation and flex film compared.

Sources

• Sawgrass: Sublimation Heat Press Settings, quick reference (PDF), Sublimation Heat Press Settings, help page, Top 10 Tips for Pressing Drinkware, Coated or Uncoated Products, Checking your press temperature, tumbler guides: tumbler press, tumbler press with 55 s and oven
• Longforte (blank supplier): 11 oz mug, metal tumbler, aluminium sheet 20 x 30, mouse mat, A5 puzzle, ceramic tile, MDF photo panel, sublimation on cotton
• HTVRONT (press manufacturer): Sublimation Guide
• Heat Press Nation: Unisub coasters with pressing instructions (retailer)
• Sign Warehouse: DTF vs. Sublimation vs. HTV (retailer)
• Cricut: Infusible Ink FAQ